From GUCCI to CELINE, is minimalism abandoned?

Just after the Paris Fashion Week, which was not long before, Hedi Slimane's CELINE new season costumes were finally unveiled in a mixed-sounding quarrel. Behind the funny commentary of the new CELINE "final change from Faye Wong's wardrobe to Nicholas Tse's wardrobe", the luxury industry insiders began to think more and even 觊觎: when Phoebe Philo earned in the old days of Céline After a large territory, Hedi Slimane "invisible abandonment", who can "catch up" this treasure.

But in fact, is this "treasure land" absolutely present now? The answer may not be as simple as "2-1=1".

In this season, the new creative director has also changed, and the brand has changed more than the CELINE family. Among the well-known brands, there is also the British veteran fashion brand BURBERRY. Unlike the radical change of Hedi Slimane, Riccardo Tisci is in the latest season. The adjustments made to BURBERRY's classic plaid elements, outlines, and tailoring styles are not large, just using a lot of new prints and adding a few punk elements. However, the “different roads” may not be “same”. After the show, the market’s “safety card” for Riccardo Tisci is also mixed: although this change is “intimate” for BURBERRY senior fans, it lacks impact and topic. It also means that the market potential has not really been opened.

Two male design directors, known as "ghosts", have made two very different reform attempts. The ending seems to be not perfect, but it is enough to reflect the "thinking" mentality of the fashion industry. Their "face-changing test" burned to the end of the product, and also really tested the preference of a new generation of fashion customers, perhaps in another transformation.

Although many people will not agree with it, in the recent resurgence of the retro style and the trend of street fashion, the minimalist fashion with the label of “practical”, “less logo” and “anti-brand” has been adopted. In fact, it has been slowly eroded.

Before CELINE and BURBERRY, in 2015, the "big change face" of GUCCI, which was operated by Alessandro Michele, can also support the above views in a certain sense. This creative genius in the fashion show that was called "the biggest topic of fashion circle" in the past, almost completely subverted the practice of GUCCI "simplified decoration and increase in classic design" from 2010 to 2015, but chose "no longer Sticking to the present, to explore the blurring zone between 'no more repeating' and 'not yet happening' - this classic quotation from Alessandro Michele seems to be the voice of many big-name operators who are looking for breakthroughs.

With the continuous participation of Internet technology and the continual renovation of consumer demand, the products and topics of the fashion industry may have to learn Alessandro Michele's “Exploring Dafa”. After continuously testing the “water temperature” in the fuzzy zone, it is possible to grab more food. Block of the market cake.

At the moment, there are two main factors that influence the “exploration of results”: newcomers and old traditions.

The newcomers refer to the customer groups that the big names need to face now are “millennials”. They are the people born in the outbreak of the Internet, advocating individual expressions, and have their own judgment standards for fashion and fashion. Their purchasing desires and abilities In the year-by-year promotion, the aesthetic standards of this group have been catered to become the theme of many big-name day and night thinking. The marketing plan will adopt more channels that young people often contact, and the design direction will also be inevitably biased. . In the past two years, the rise of street trends and sports retro styles has nothing to do with their choices.

The old tradition refers to the long history of the big names, with the cultural and spiritual brilliance. It is the reason why the big names are called “big names” and the high expression of the effectiveness of the “branding” of goods. So, we saw how Alessandro Michele advocated innovation and never gave up the saddle belt and stripe ribbon logo that GUCCI is proud of. It is not a simple matter to deal with the relationship between heritage tradition and innovation breakthrough. In the past two years, the big name has sought a breakthrough through the rotation of the design class-creative director. It is a “buffering” method to reconcile the two major demands, but it is difficult to achieve the expected effect by “excessive force” or “insufficiency”. For example, CELINE and BURBERRY in this season.

In the big-commercial fashion market with high degree of commercialization, although “fashion is fleeting, only style persists”, it also needs to take care of the pressure of survival and operation. This is not a “frustration” or “change”. It is the inevitable choice of competition. The practical and elegant minimalist style will never be “outdated” in the design field, but the evolution of the style also has its cycle of prosperity and decline. At least in the trend of the last two years, it may be nicknamed “consumption downgrade” by everyone. Extremely simple, I am afraid that it will take a while.